tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-77688917293805842362024-03-13T14:33:40.260+02:00MCmuffin's hobby blogRC, electronics, video and photographySiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.comBlogger11125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-90645447127238551282015-12-20T17:40:00.000+02:002015-12-20T17:52:49.349+02:00EV Scooter Project Log Overview<div style="text-align: center;">
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So let's get back to electronics and all that other good stuff!<br />
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So I want to build a some kind of electric vehicle, so I thought it would be a good idea to learn how to build a brushless dc (BLDC) motor controller and how to control a brushless dc motor. Why brushless and not induction? Well, first of all, as of my background in RC, I can use one of my RC motors to test a controller prototype and I know where I can get bigger RC motor with more power if I need it. Plus BLDC motors are simpler to control than induction motors, so that was also a big factor why I decided to start from here. I'm scheduled to graduate spring 2016, so I hope I can you give you guys a nice project log on how this will be progressing from here.</div>
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I have planned my thesis work on these steps with the first step being the absolutely mandatory one and the hereafter being "stretch goals" to work on if there is time:</div>
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<li style="text-align: left;">Design and build a <u>simple</u>, working sensored BLDC motor controller using hall-effect sensors</li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Learn how Battery Management Systems (BMSs) work and build one for the EV</li>
<li style="text-align: left;"><span style="text-align: center;">Design and build a vector controlled BLDC motor controller for increased running efficiency</span></li>
<li style="text-align: left;">Build a simple switching mode power supply charger for the EV</li>
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I also want to use this controller and a motor to build a small scale electric vehicle. I choose small scale with the simple reasons as: Cost, less of everything tends to be cheaper than a lot of everything. Complexity, keep it as simple as possible, but not too simple. Scaling, what you learn here allows you to scale what you have learned later to larger scale.</div>
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With these attributes in mind I started to think and look for a mechanical platform, which to convert to EV use. At this point I want to point out that we want to keep everything as simple as possible mechanically, so don't expect anything aesthetically polished implementation. Possibilities were realistically limited to a skateboard (longboard), a kickbike or a bicycle. Skateboard was an interesting option after seeing the success of the American "Boosted boards" kickstarter campaign, but especially after seeing the two videos below.</div>
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<i>This guy is just so cool cruising around with this thing!</i></div>
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<i>Of course you won't have to ride away from giant koopa shells IRL</i></div>
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In both of these videos they are using the Boosted boards, but to me this does present a sliiiight challenge... I can't skateboard. So that is something that I would need to learn, but as an added interest there was the need to make a wireless controller for the throttle. Personally that also interested me, but after getting sponsoring from the company I work for, <a href="http://www.prenta.fi/">Prenta Oy</a> (site in finnish), which designs and manufactures 3D-printers. They encouraged me to ditch the skateboard idea, simply because general public can't skateboard, so it wouldn't have as big of a market demographic if it were to be commercialized. I found the reasons justified and the skateboard was abandoned.</div>
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Next I started to look into a bicycle as a platform, but that was quickly ruled out, as there really weren't any that cheap of bicycles available in the market with sensible geometrics. The powertrain from the motor to the wheel also presented quite a challenge, which we were not ready to undertake and so the bicycle was abandoned.</div>
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So kickbikes it was, or scooters as they're called (not the artist ;) ). Searching around google in the finnish market produced a lot of the small wheeled kickbikes, but they were decided to reject, because the small wheels would not perform well for long distances on sidewalks with bumps, gravel and miniscule pebbles would probably make it polevault.<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small wheels are not ideal for commuting</td></tr>
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So what we needed were big wheeled kickbikes. The bigger wheels would also absorb some the impacts while traveling the roads. Available selection of big wheeled kickbikes was much more limited than the small wheeled ones, but after looking at the possibilities and the prices they really were only one model. Puky R7L pictured below. It's really meant for kids, the weight limit of 85 Kg being the testament to his, but the price was good and it would be sufficient to work as the proof of concept platform. There also was much bigger kick bikes, clearly made for adult commuting, but they were much more expensive and therefore abandoned. Maybe next iteration ;)<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">a Puky R7L. We ordered ours in all black for that extra cool look</td></tr>
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Now, I'm going to put emphasis on this. There is <b>NO</b> telling what kind of monster/freak/mutant of a electric kickbike we are going to end up with! But be assured! Atleast it's gonna be <b>crazy fast!</b> </div>
SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-73401898614431807772015-12-14T16:09:00.000+02:002015-12-14T16:09:12.988+02:00165 Days In Military Service<br />
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Selfie from the ranger flying field where we trained</td></tr>
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This post is to give you guys a overall summary of the 165 days spent in Finnish Defense Forces. The service time is divided into 3 equally lenghty training periods, which are Bootcamp, specialization training and then multiple forces training.</div>
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<u><b>Bootcamp</b></u> was physically the roughest time I have ever had. The FDF really wasted no time getting everyone up to speed on what was demanded from each of us. The schedule was packed to the brim every week and if we were lucky we might have had the evenings to visit the soldier's home, basically a cafeteria inside the barracks for the combatants (they said we weren't soldiers, but combatants. go figure). The army boots were absolute hell on my heels, they hurt so bad! Felt like I had hot coals inside my heel. Luckily I was able to procure some gel heel pads on one of the weekend leaves and save my heels from permanent damage.</div>
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First settling shooting with the RK62s were exciting, having basically no real experience with firearms and of course after that we learned how to clean and maintain them, cool and actually fun stuff. There were shooting range days so everyone could actually calibrate the sights and then actually get some holes put through the target boards, I was pretty decent with 'mah RK, but I felt my eyesight was clearly a limiting factor.</div>
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The forest camping training was fun... wait no, that's the wrong word. Hell. I got a high fever on the first camp, because I had a guard shift at night and it was raining and it was cold and I was tired. Wet and cold is not a good combination and of course somebody didn't keep the stove on in the tent, so it was cold inside too. There was a good side to this though, after visiting the barracks hospital I got couple days of rest from the training! And luckily it chewed a couple days off from the next camping happy fun time in the forest. The was something fun in the second camp though and that was throwing a live hand grenade, made a nice boom. My throw was shit though, but I'm going to blame that on the semi-concussion I got while running in the trenches and banging my helmet covered head on a horizontal wooden beam. I think I lost one vertebrae from the impact.</div>
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Last memory from the bootcamp period was the 18 mile cross country march in the local area. I think we left at 8 pm in the evening and before that we had a shooting range training, to which we had to cycle 12 miles and then 12 miles back. We came back to our unit's lower yard at 2 am and the bottom of my feet were bleeding.</div>
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The period reached it's peak when we had our soldier's oath, it was a magical event in it's own way.</div>
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<u>All in all the bootcamp experience itself was awful, but the other awesome servicemen made it tolerable!</u></div>
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<u style="font-weight: bold;">Specialization training,</u> finally something that I'm familiar with... RC stuff! Right away our aerial target team's staff sergeant whisked us away from our unit to 300 miles away to Lohtaja, which is the place where the live AA exercises are done. It was time to get to know our new equipment. Gone away were the assault rifles and chest rigs and in were the RC radio equipment and screw drivers.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Engine test runs on the MALE 97 made by finnish Avartek company</td></tr>
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The team that I was a part of was small, only 6 servicemen, and that's in the whole country! We were going to be responsible for over half of the live AA exercises! But the team picked up the job very quickly. The training we did for the first week with the smaller MALE 97 planes was to ensure our pilots were good to go and knew what kind of flying was wanted and maintenance on the side learned the quirks of the planes and how to fix them. I was first in the pilot side of things, but I later dropped out to the maintenance after concluding that my crappy eyesight didn't allow me to fly at the needed distances safely.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Prepped planes fueled, inspected, charged and ready to go</td></tr>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Field engine maintenance</td></tr>
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<i>Slow mo video of a hand launching of the plane</i></div>
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After the training with the smaller planes was completed we returned back to our home barracks for a couple of days and after the weekend we left for Lohtaja again. Now it was time start using the planes that were going to be used in the actual live fire exercises, the MALE 04, also by avartek. It's basically the big brother of the older 97 with bigger wingspan, bigger motor, bigger hull and much, much better design overall. Otherwise it was pretty much the same schedule, but just with the bigger plane now. Oh yea, also a fricking catapult!</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Catapult to throw the bigger MALE 04 planes. No more hand launches!</td></tr>
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<i>POV of launching a plane with the catapult</i></div>
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<i>Plane coming in to land</i></div>
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Man this thing was so frickin' awesome! Well, another week rolled by and we were back at the home barracks. Now, at this point we still had 3 months left in our service and now begins probably the worst time of all. The time that we had absolutely nothing to do. Just imagine, you're trained at the thing you were supposed to be trained, but nobody needs your services. That was us. Nobody needed any aerial target action. So in the end we basically just laid on our beds in our room in the unit's building. There were 2 times that we had some target service we needed to provide, but otherwise we just laid around to burn time. This went on for pretty much, until we had 4 weeks left of our service and it was time for the actual big training event at Lohtaja. Finally some proper action!</div>
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The exercise was the pinnacle of our military careers and I must admit it was pretty awesome watching all the traces flying in air, chasing our planes. We split into 2 flying groups, which flew from two different areas to the turrets and cannons. Our group had only one plane that was shot down, well, more like blown up to bits as it was hit by the 35 mm cannons from the <span style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marksman_anti-aircraft_system" style="font-weight: bold;">T-55AM Marksman</a> </span></div>
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<i>I luckily caught the one plane on video that was actually shot down by AA fire</i></div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDI0nx-SnU8OSxdqKwK0yL8AxIYEtlqBheizuDehZdFWcpMrF1tHZFbo_c93X6ERGYp8TLqfQeGntT-fzNKY7ydt3AQedAXiK5NImv3Y4KFMQc0xyfQgWbPNv9eVXDhIY1FzfX-rEDnTQ/s1600/PB190266.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiDI0nx-SnU8OSxdqKwK0yL8AxIYEtlqBheizuDehZdFWcpMrF1tHZFbo_c93X6ERGYp8TLqfQeGntT-fzNKY7ydt3AQedAXiK5NImv3Y4KFMQc0xyfQgWbPNv9eVXDhIY1FzfX-rEDnTQ/s320/PB190266.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Having some lunch out in the fields :D</td></tr>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiingPEQIbQSFudV6_P_MOnPDd4bIYle8A0E4KkA5vbR1rQeRQ3YQtfOov_Zx-H2RPN2NsPoznF_2t0Xy7QykGDt6Qshq0AApg9r8z_bOBkNS5w2iQ3qANl-ey9nO0nHqGR0rg0_xeOwus/s1600/PB210415.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="240" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiingPEQIbQSFudV6_P_MOnPDd4bIYle8A0E4KkA5vbR1rQeRQ3YQtfOov_Zx-H2RPN2NsPoznF_2t0Xy7QykGDt6Qshq0AApg9r8z_bOBkNS5w2iQ3qANl-ey9nO0nHqGR0rg0_xeOwus/s320/PB210415.JPG" width="320" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Flash photography in the dark tent in the evening to cheer up our buddies</td></tr>
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After the exercise we really didn't have any flying services that we needed to provide, so again it was back to laying on our beds... So much wasted time... </div>
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<b><u>All in all, it was an experience I will never forget</u></b></div>
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<b><u>All the awesome guys I met in the military</u></b></div>
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<b><u>All the horrible training exercises</u></b></div>
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<b><u>Long, cold, wet nights in the forest</u></b></div>
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<b><u>Long, warm, sleepy days spent on our beds</u></b></div>
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<b><u>I want to thank everyone who I met during these times</u></b></div>
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<b><u>And I will always honor the times we spent together</u></b></div>
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SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-22773394934350857562015-11-27T02:33:00.000+02:002015-11-27T02:33:51.302+02:00Getting Back to Project Logging<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/uBSl5WcLBUAd66iPmftxtKB3XUWGIYVEqCRqvLIIhUQyQTCPHnnlQBQ2KIbcmJ4onQTyYE-CN9nxXRVYcN9hYn61bELvJ1kZZmdgH3QXoTdY3Sfp-6KfZ9eojPDIgENrUqCHiffEyLUo8AKGxEeHT2YGRmBA4WuKaVUIyWnJJhudkyvueGzrlEcUF_7V7rURL8tg-ahIB_HsQ0zRVL3Wqu8q_3CzFcoWqnL8majv6YGeTWq-qEBd04uG5FuxMjW6dWPRzkMsCAxH9QcJG_hwDgdtA6A-ypMs8TgNykNLCdGWnn2LbXqwfoIH2fZ0ou_uoueYxG2C_RWDGN9W5h0GtaP8HQm7ozvcQu9vYa1UIJAfNHK2vLZWkXz5V9PupQD78rXxZX4d6e_ylayd2ZFvKKPj7BGFdCxYahW-qCSBothDL7a_SOJelc4fZDVSL2kCItWXuNgejVnEjh6tn3tm5DGaDjRO7rooQr3I3muT6yLYa4awHTyZxli4Ai84W_EXuguPNKALZkPrKPudgP1ZEXTxADnuA_f289tpz3rDqjM=w1287-h965-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/uBSl5WcLBUAd66iPmftxtKB3XUWGIYVEqCRqvLIIhUQyQTCPHnnlQBQ2KIbcmJ4onQTyYE-CN9nxXRVYcN9hYn61bELvJ1kZZmdgH3QXoTdY3Sfp-6KfZ9eojPDIgENrUqCHiffEyLUo8AKGxEeHT2YGRmBA4WuKaVUIyWnJJhudkyvueGzrlEcUF_7V7rURL8tg-ahIB_HsQ0zRVL3Wqu8q_3CzFcoWqnL8majv6YGeTWq-qEBd04uG5FuxMjW6dWPRzkMsCAxH9QcJG_hwDgdtA6A-ypMs8TgNykNLCdGWnn2LbXqwfoIH2fZ0ou_uoueYxG2C_RWDGN9W5h0GtaP8HQm7ozvcQu9vYa1UIJAfNHK2vLZWkXz5V9PupQD78rXxZX4d6e_ylayd2ZFvKKPj7BGFdCxYahW-qCSBothDL7a_SOJelc4fZDVSL2kCItWXuNgejVnEjh6tn3tm5DGaDjRO7rooQr3I3muT6yLYa4awHTyZxli4Ai84W_EXuguPNKALZkPrKPudgP1ZEXTxADnuA_f289tpz3rDqjM=w1287-h965-no" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Leaning against a <b><a href="https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Marksman_anti-aircraft_system">T-55AM Marksman</a></b></span></td></tr>
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a Lenghty time has passed since last updates and many things have happened between then and now, but I think I'm going to start doing some project logs and other updates again. Personally I want to tell people what stuff I've been working on in my free time and also this way I also will have a nice way of showing other people what kind of skills I have.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/VjL5g8M3aVGkG_Sq9dfhQqM7smpxfQH57iNl1PS7zfVKwY8oLMi2dqV5aw0TvpunG0d6jiL3qXtOtKqfFKMUj_bgVBjZKOJK_aMNDuMxxwPUDoAsLW7dvTj30lPqvoqbrH3WIvQ-_yncdTM4n-MVDgfHSqW5JEbu0fxaTGMhiGB56CuqYszon5e3W1tQBsStLaCNP_-g0PCt_jLm5qY1fa00v0JiJFxKsFjas1cUOno5a1w301a3THQ25O8Y4fX9TCF7RMTHN-JnaB8_gsikiX_KTVeibqI0z7Jc6qzzuAmN8MKkmBY1v2b2Uuhy5QKkpVM-AwH28GTPbTpzy_6Tl-H7_nbkpOk1yDYxV2KzMM-r6kRLNVGv3WqoxC_eVBxIpFc8xmFrZYCserAn3b-NP9X-J44pgfXjn12lrPRPNc0ptXw6XjdVS_T-4i5oqwSeFZXIB2g22HQVcToTOCW9rNqkNLlvbgSFVpRYazDpsg5zT6KaeMpTAEniJzgrjIE2BkjF5sPs_t7DxPPVvumUJjHN5289fsWujshBNLZacGQ=w1287-h965-no" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" height="298" src="https://2.bp.blogspot.com/VjL5g8M3aVGkG_Sq9dfhQqM7smpxfQH57iNl1PS7zfVKwY8oLMi2dqV5aw0TvpunG0d6jiL3qXtOtKqfFKMUj_bgVBjZKOJK_aMNDuMxxwPUDoAsLW7dvTj30lPqvoqbrH3WIvQ-_yncdTM4n-MVDgfHSqW5JEbu0fxaTGMhiGB56CuqYszon5e3W1tQBsStLaCNP_-g0PCt_jLm5qY1fa00v0JiJFxKsFjas1cUOno5a1w301a3THQ25O8Y4fX9TCF7RMTHN-JnaB8_gsikiX_KTVeibqI0z7Jc6qzzuAmN8MKkmBY1v2b2Uuhy5QKkpVM-AwH28GTPbTpzy_6Tl-H7_nbkpOk1yDYxV2KzMM-r6kRLNVGv3WqoxC_eVBxIpFc8xmFrZYCserAn3b-NP9X-J44pgfXjn12lrPRPNc0ptXw6XjdVS_T-4i5oqwSeFZXIB2g22HQVcToTOCW9rNqkNLlvbgSFVpRYazDpsg5zT6KaeMpTAEniJzgrjIE2BkjF5sPs_t7DxPPVvumUJjHN5289fsWujshBNLZacGQ=w1287-h965-no" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-size: small;">Our Aerial Target Team, with us, the servicemen and our supervisor</span></td></tr>
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I am about to finish my service in the <u>Finnish Defense Forces</u> at the aerial target team, which is responsible for maintaining, servicing and flying the remote controlled planes used in live anti-air exercises. My service is due to end at the end of this year and as the army was a big lifestyle changer I think I should also make a couple of lifestyle changes in the civilian side of things. I am so excited about getting back to the sunshine (rain and slush atm) and freedom of the civilian life and I have so many projects and things I am eager to get started on.</div>
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In the <u>next update</u> I'm going to give you guys a short overview what the last 6 months of my life were like in the military and what kind of experiences I am taking away from it. Also I need to finish my bachelor's degree in the university and I'll be posting updates on my thesis.</div>
SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-10984241299600356742014-11-02T18:23:00.001+02:002014-11-02T18:23:33.101+02:00Something CNC this way...<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.openbuilds.com/attachments/untitled-199-jpg.627/" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://www.openbuilds.com/attachments/untitled-199-jpg.627/" height="215" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">CNC router "Routy"</td></tr>
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So I have decided to build a CNC router as my thesis work for my bachelor's degree in embedded systems at the university of applied sciences in Tampere, Finland. I will be making a full report on it and I will also be publishing a build log here in my blog.</div>
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I'm building it also so I can start making more accurate and repeatable prototype parts for my multirotor projects, which will be published here in the blog as a project log. Once I also manage to develop something good and thoroughly tested and proven, I plan on selling them here as kits. I plan keeping everything as <b>open source</b>, so if you ever wonder about anything and I have forgotten to tell it, ask about it in the article's comments.</div>
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Looking around the net for good builds I stumbled upon <a href="http://openbuildspartstore.com/">http://openbuildspartstore.com/</a> and their open source project lists (<a href="http://www.openbuilds.com/">http://www.openbuilds.com/</a>), which they refer to as "OPENBUILDS". You can find templates and builds for 3D printers, cnc routers, laser cutters, drawbots, vacuum forming machines and many more. The best thing however about all these builds are that they source the majority of their parts from the site's store directly, so you can find a particularly interesting project, download the part list from the particular projects log and get a good shopping list on what to order.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2300/itwgldve/product_images/uploaded_images/vslot-modular-machines-examples.gif?t=1398725710" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="http://cdn2.bigcommerce.com/server2300/itwgldve/product_images/uploaded_images/vslot-modular-machines-examples.gif?t=1398725710" height="223" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">V-slot aluminium profile configurations</td></tr>
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Most of the mechanical frames base their material on the store's V-slot aluminium profile, for which the store's other parts are made to work with. There are literally hundreds of different ways to combine the store's parts into different kinds of configurations based on what you need and/or want to build as you can see above.</div>
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I have put in the parts order for the <a href="http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/routy-cnc-router-v-slot-belt-pinion.101/">"Routy" CNC router</a> configuration and will be making project updates as the build progresses!</div>
SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-41440255110226815972014-10-28T22:06:00.000+02:002014-10-28T23:27:01.831+02:00REVIEW: Quanum DIY FPV Goggles<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPji5KLg2_fBHklQqqhoabXj4iw1Hs1xy1YGZXEop5HJ5FME42-_S3T-58zHzkiI9_k1kbel7KCUCUWjdKLVGCR8XZ57DrSDs7yAEvE_z1aQYCeywe6wnIgtyOTUd1SDCgXIZYprrUD1Y/s1600/IMG_6455_text.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiPji5KLg2_fBHklQqqhoabXj4iw1Hs1xy1YGZXEop5HJ5FME42-_S3T-58zHzkiI9_k1kbel7KCUCUWjdKLVGCR8XZ57DrSDs7yAEvE_z1aQYCeywe6wnIgtyOTUd1SDCgXIZYprrUD1Y/s1600/IMG_6455_text.jpg" height="275" width="400" /></a></div>
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"provide a good entry point to FPV-flying with goggles"</blockquote>
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So you want to start flying FPV, but you don't want to buy an external monitor? You go looking for affordable goggles' instead and find out that the cheapest ones start at a couple of hundred dollars, but you don't have the budget for them and you don't necessarily need something so premium. Just something to get you started and see if you want to buy better one later. Well these DIY goggles offer a very good and affordable entry point to the experience. Here are my opinion on the glasses.</div>
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Technically not being really glasses, but neatly packaged small LCD screen into an EPO-enclosure with a head strap. it's quite easy to see and feel why these are not very expensive, but for the price you pay you get surprisingly lot. And you won't feel bad if you drop this accidentally, because it will survive the fall.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgECX6odT08K2gtihn5obOhAMVNjCwtVE1_6OJa0H9w9Wx0ZFcB9sGRWJXc2soWdsfrgkMwYDDyHkKE6JI_7Zugsn-nOPUYrFXQ2Omg03ZD84qwefSCsRW45n6W617c1a4Ska7EysfNsoA/s1600/IMG_6460.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgECX6odT08K2gtihn5obOhAMVNjCwtVE1_6OJa0H9w9Wx0ZFcB9sGRWJXc2soWdsfrgkMwYDDyHkKE6JI_7Zugsn-nOPUYrFXQ2Omg03ZD84qwefSCsRW45n6W617c1a4Ska7EysfNsoA/s1600/IMG_6460.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Above is shown the main parts you get in the package. LCD screen, top and bottom half of the enclosure, some foam pads (already attached), a lens holder (assembled) and a elastic head strap. Assembling all the parts will take a maximum of 15 minutes, unless you need to wait for glue to dry. I personally use tape to hold everything together.<br />
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieo11yXIil876iJbkHjL2P9qvdQzjqrkhD-s8DoD8PICeznOrVQgrO7xuVpAUa36WnJSER-a0ByW0SJ0uhk_OrplYUyvjDpSypjp4CSV-LkMHkiHM_I1jl2J58vpgeU1km-ll09ZxZe5A/s1600/IMG_6462.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEieo11yXIil876iJbkHjL2P9qvdQzjqrkhD-s8DoD8PICeznOrVQgrO7xuVpAUa36WnJSER-a0ByW0SJ0uhk_OrplYUyvjDpSypjp4CSV-LkMHkiHM_I1jl2J58vpgeU1km-ll09ZxZe5A/s1600/IMG_6462.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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The LCD screen won't win any awards for it's quality, but it doesn't go into a "blue screen" and with a panel size of 11 cm or 4,4 in placed ~10 centimeters away from your eyes, gives a nice field of view compared to an external monitor.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOGlygw3ZWA8bTK4_cjZMQadE0bT3acoN4fH6OiSOHUAWOPA07IAehfg-l70I2Gsgi7uueH8Rf9Npim-Kkgnkg2wBa7ArPmjhWuTIiyoas32wD6EcGgpevoJ4EBcEJUcwaADoOkTsYUI4/s1600/IMG_6463.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhOGlygw3ZWA8bTK4_cjZMQadE0bT3acoN4fH6OiSOHUAWOPA07IAehfg-l70I2Gsgi7uueH8Rf9Npim-Kkgnkg2wBa7ArPmjhWuTIiyoas32wD6EcGgpevoJ4EBcEJUcwaADoOkTsYUI4/s1600/IMG_6463.JPG" height="262" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ODsLUqoX7Vx_yMCUOcf0aaqQX6UiOUZh2V2J-cCBcPLqYmM06cYmMkD2jx6VvCjaBdxPCwjRq0GS6QKPwBoRBwAbhEd-SXK1Nyu4sXN1Ca4Em1gasDzSPU7pv-5J2YXnHrigbLz2enY/s1600/IMG_6469.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9ODsLUqoX7Vx_yMCUOcf0aaqQX6UiOUZh2V2J-cCBcPLqYmM06cYmMkD2jx6VvCjaBdxPCwjRq0GS6QKPwBoRBwAbhEd-SXK1Nyu4sXN1Ca4Em1gasDzSPU7pv-5J2YXnHrigbLz2enY/s1600/IMG_6469.JPG" height="146" width="400" /></a></div>
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It has RCA jacks for both composite video and audio, but it doesn't have speakers so... no idea why that's there. 12 Volt power, is supplied via a DC plug and comes with a JST connector cable so you can use a Li-Po battery to power it.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1xffFG1aWs6MFv02GECF0w-7eROi4JH80fEq6XsnWAsBxEYQfzYpwNT-deoc3AwehPR9MgdbaWJ8vTu9gaA_2B4AMvXK1fT6jl9Thy-P__XKM7yB0o6CUkN1ZddckVTH_nxLyz9UxUBo/s1600/IMG_6467.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg1xffFG1aWs6MFv02GECF0w-7eROi4JH80fEq6XsnWAsBxEYQfzYpwNT-deoc3AwehPR9MgdbaWJ8vTu9gaA_2B4AMvXK1fT6jl9Thy-P__XKM7yB0o6CUkN1ZddckVTH_nxLyz9UxUBo/s1600/IMG_6467.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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On the back are 3 buttons, which are used to navigate the menus. You can change brightness, contrast, color (saturation), aspect ratio (4:3 and 16:9), language and reset back to factory defaults. </div>
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As an interesting detail when taking the back plate off of the screen to look at the circuitry, which consisted mostly of power supply components, a couple buttons and the LCD driver. I Discovered a "24 V" silkmask marking on the +Vcc pad and measuring the two regulators for 3,3 volts and 1,2 volts along side a small switching mode 5 volt supply with the coils and caps. Meaning that you have a very wide input voltage range from 7-24 Volts, <b>so you can also use any Li-Po from 2-5 cells</b> to power this.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj41Uk5V531lpglDMwQ0ujZcphlJYoAyBj0lSwf-KtsHmseFLPtJCAb7ijMTP9WX0EsTyHPeESvoeiQrnIsNqHMi2oJhymoEriQBwZQlU6_L3UZ5_J08S-FyLXgNc2umucJKTra1XN0GMQ/s1600/IMG_6468.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEj41Uk5V531lpglDMwQ0ujZcphlJYoAyBj0lSwf-KtsHmseFLPtJCAb7ijMTP9WX0EsTyHPeESvoeiQrnIsNqHMi2oJhymoEriQBwZQlU6_L3UZ5_J08S-FyLXgNc2umucJKTra1XN0GMQ/s1600/IMG_6468.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Next part is the lenses and the lens holder. The holder rectangle itself is cut from glass fiber along with 2 little tabs, which go to it's sides, I personally glued mine to it. The lenses come in 3 different zoom strengths and you'll want to test, which one is the best for you. I personally found the smallest zoom lens the best and taped it onto the lens holder (tapes on the backside on the picture above). </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMIgjzPV6pBoc-KA7e6aVEjJmQly2-zP1esmUatg5eNcyN2-fdfWVAb7iR65zpKZIDvW2Wakqava82KcSUNwE2FpZRZSYBNVBWW_-gRNnn3VkWgAiBQSa25CChCODUelVSMGmu1P8ztM/s1600/IMG_6472.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEiTMIgjzPV6pBoc-KA7e6aVEjJmQly2-zP1esmUatg5eNcyN2-fdfWVAb7iR65zpKZIDvW2Wakqava82KcSUNwE2FpZRZSYBNVBWW_-gRNnn3VkWgAiBQSa25CChCODUelVSMGmu1P8ztM/s1600/IMG_6472.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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No lens and the picture is nice and crisp, but won't fill your field of view so well. Other thing that I have noticed is that because the screen is quite close for your eyes to focus, it really strained my eyes and I could feel the start of a headache. </div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXb3XE8kQOQcxkCHAXV5lAL4TKJSLYVPSqKaPtkv0cvadO6wGY-ylagSfVuyZCLddxdN19CJ4bq2NIYz3O891MUhYBMA5_BoDY0EPURaWczuaRzX444_riMi80OtvRaSfCDJUqZQQPNM4/s1600/IMG_6473.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXb3XE8kQOQcxkCHAXV5lAL4TKJSLYVPSqKaPtkv0cvadO6wGY-ylagSfVuyZCLddxdN19CJ4bq2NIYz3O891MUhYBMA5_BoDY0EPURaWczuaRzX444_riMi80OtvRaSfCDJUqZQQPNM4/s1600/IMG_6473.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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With the lens in place the picture is brought closer (not well illustrated above), so it'll give wider field of view. As a plus with the lens I didn't feel like it was straining my eyes, so no headaches, which is good. Personally I have it setup so that the screen edges touch the sides of the lens when I have the goggles on.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-guqGfZ_rxagmSdXyat6HfW732X2PvSKuxWIBz8AMUBQadUIJQp9JEkRwUCPaMehymtbemjAMq4ZdNy6oydi8_BK11AGgrDTqLMIQoR2Z5At8uYQL3qAfjf7QW0G0saydx7k73sKK4E/s1600/IMG_6474.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEit-guqGfZ_rxagmSdXyat6HfW732X2PvSKuxWIBz8AMUBQadUIJQp9JEkRwUCPaMehymtbemjAMq4ZdNy6oydi8_BK11AGgrDTqLMIQoR2Z5At8uYQL3qAfjf7QW0G0saydx7k73sKK4E/s1600/IMG_6474.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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I like how simple the lens' adjustment is. You get little foam rubber pads, which you glue or tape on to the top and bottom halves of the enclosure and when you put them together the foam pushes down enough to hold the lens frame in place and you can adjust it by moving the outward sticking tabs closer or further from your face. Simple!</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-U7AigJoDUqC1fx-hpxdGW55Z4_pZ3MHmpLupcu2YRBn9UQKBdFKKmblUJT1CLJ-RPJOhOpfHiYUVo8P-WPg4sLZgaG6djHSwj8PALof6C_ghPixhyphenhyphenO8W74h61Z3PJVSL26xRBpb-Bk/s1600/IMG_6476.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjn-U7AigJoDUqC1fx-hpxdGW55Z4_pZ3MHmpLupcu2YRBn9UQKBdFKKmblUJT1CLJ-RPJOhOpfHiYUVo8P-WPg4sLZgaG6djHSwj8PALof6C_ghPixhyphenhyphenO8W74h61Z3PJVSL26xRBpb-Bk/s1600/IMG_6476.JPG" height="228" width="400" /></a></div>
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Ergonomically, how does it feel on your face out of the box? It's not a perfect fit, it's good, but not perfect. The only part I would like to cut and shape a little is the nose notch, it's a bit too small. It crunches the tip of my nose when I have the goggles on so that the screen is at a nice position for my eyes, so I don't need look upwards. A little extra notch should fix it.</div>
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Also included in the package are couple of thin, long and firm foam pads, which are meant to be put on the business end to give a little padding against your face. Weight itself shouldn't produce problems, but given that the screen is right at the other end, it might start straining your neck muscles during prolonged use, if you keep it parallel to the ground. </div>
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END STATEMENT</h2>
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Ratings from 1 to 10</div>
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<b>Price/Quality : 8 (30 $)</b></div>
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<b>Ergonomics : 6 ; 8 after making it fit your face properly</b></div>
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<b>Usability : 6</b></div>
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As a summary it's an affordable entry point into the FPV-scene. For the price it's really good bang for your buck, but as a DIY kit it needs some touches from the user/owner to make it work the best. Ergonomically it's good. You get very good shielding from sunlight and it'll fit your face well after you have done a little modding. Usability wise it's also very good, with simple setup and menus, but It could have had another video input so you could perhaps connect it to a laptop or cellphone's mini-hdmi. All in all, good and affordable package!</div>
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<a href="https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__62744__Quanum_DIY_FPV_Goggle_Set_with_Monitor_KIT_EU_Warehouse_.html">Hobby King's (EU) product page</a></div>
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<a href="https://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/uh_viewitem.asp?idproduct=53706">Hobby King's (International) product page</a></div>
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SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-59252867192445804612014-09-21T14:44:00.001+03:002014-09-21T14:45:53.262+03:00Project: Carbon Quad Finished<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8sQeQDS1_iSNZ4N0x_AveUYqQVWS3vvKWdwZfRzeq4cqeTP6tY8yqsRHHjtgIRYtd7kHsqzUIqG83xoybXOG1awSnhyZPxQr4FelyDCW_rREjVlGp1Mf-vCJ_rIqzCcGAsHJq8vWhego/s1600/IMG_6431.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg8sQeQDS1_iSNZ4N0x_AveUYqQVWS3vvKWdwZfRzeq4cqeTP6tY8yqsRHHjtgIRYtd7kHsqzUIqG83xoybXOG1awSnhyZPxQr4FelyDCW_rREjVlGp1Mf-vCJ_rIqzCcGAsHJq8vWhego/s1600/IMG_6431.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Finally all the parts needed have arrived and it's time to complete the build. (<a href="http://simosmcmuffin.blogspot.com/2014/07/carbon-quad-update-1.html">link</a> to previous project log part).</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTC6kYOoswpli17fC1YtH0k87Ug2Vy0lElFfXueqLDBTpm0bLArW18c9HiLN05q2ysVIpwHWoNbwG3pDxRnszzGTAl2qb1Skc9ahE0e_xs8vmndy7_lL-BEMA6mEygiKAU5CNmq8H40k/s1600/IMG_6346.JPG" imageanchor="1"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhPTC6kYOoswpli17fC1YtH0k87Ug2Vy0lElFfXueqLDBTpm0bLArW18c9HiLN05q2ysVIpwHWoNbwG3pDxRnszzGTAl2qb1Skc9ahE0e_xs8vmndy7_lL-BEMA6mEygiKAU5CNmq8H40k/s1600/IMG_6346.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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Motors and ESCs lined up. They need some preparing before connecting everything up.</div>
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Motors are Turnigy NTM Propdrive 900 kVs. I had decided that after my earlier experience with my hexacopter's dt700s and their constant eating of the motor bearings, I was going invest a little into more "premium" motors. I also decided to try out the Afro series ESCs as they were getting praises for the improved handling when used in multirotor setups and I wasn't interested in going through the re-flashing of the hobbyking's ESCs, because I wasn't sure which microcontrollers they got these days.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTt549TDsurjBhE8G5bHZzLSksXtGlz4ZkE41k8sF5wHjTycZJ1D86WvkzsmG8dHINKZND_JGMdFfDqb8zUst4TTmwHDTH5S6eNQzsSYMuat5MFfkSfZaQO7REyd9mYoY_I42FOHX3gIk/s1600/IMG_6349.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTt549TDsurjBhE8G5bHZzLSksXtGlz4ZkE41k8sF5wHjTycZJ1D86WvkzsmG8dHINKZND_JGMdFfDqb8zUst4TTmwHDTH5S6eNQzsSYMuat5MFfkSfZaQO7REyd9mYoY_I42FOHX3gIk/s1600/IMG_6349.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Counter pieces for the motor mounts. The motor mounts are a accessory pack for the motors and do not come with the motors as standard.<br />
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The material is 3 mm thick milk white plexiglas plastic, which I have used before in various projects as an enclosure building material. I would have used thin plywood, but I didn't have any in the right thickness.</div>
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Looks pretty neat and is mechanically super simple and incase of a crash it will allow the motor to twist a little bit on the boom. The nuts and bolts are M3 sized.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qvRNqywJ2PPFMz9_NgCLtXA9Q45GRLkV-XwD1WrXwXc1p9xWOjQyCBIg6g8A1ZBp_fdKwtay7uEyEogWijCxOc2ZI3imEBcyNqcEU-Wue7S6hro0Il2MYQSu5c40duNOLRFSW7XHKD4/s1600/IMG_6354.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh9qvRNqywJ2PPFMz9_NgCLtXA9Q45GRLkV-XwD1WrXwXc1p9xWOjQyCBIg6g8A1ZBp_fdKwtay7uEyEogWijCxOc2ZI3imEBcyNqcEU-Wue7S6hro0Il2MYQSu5c40duNOLRFSW7XHKD4/s1600/IMG_6354.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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This is my simple anti-vibration solution to get rid some of the motor vibrations. It's meant to be used for furniture legs to prevent scratches to floors, but I find it much more useful for this kind of use. Why didn't I use the solid rubber pads? Well the rubber pads that I found in my local hardware store was so hard and solid I wasn't very convinced it would absorb the vibrations as much, then just pass it right through it to the boom and into the frame.</div>
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Of course to make sure everything looks nice, neat and somewhat professional, the white motor mount counter pieces were painted blaaaack (not with the marker).<br />
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All the motor mounts test mounted.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uv1w7s6sxq1pLkHdpfPDe5miNAauzlm0X7qmPvJNoiiLxBiiKxM18thYSizpnGy0vjttsYAJnvyoRG8v2nfUnLdU-5u-orAMZxa6QCopTQyaM1ad5_DzM6_IkKLZkaPL3K4GE_Flczg/s1600/IMG_6362.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEg7uv1w7s6sxq1pLkHdpfPDe5miNAauzlm0X7qmPvJNoiiLxBiiKxM18thYSizpnGy0vjttsYAJnvyoRG8v2nfUnLdU-5u-orAMZxa6QCopTQyaM1ad5_DzM6_IkKLZkaPL3K4GE_Flczg/s1600/IMG_6362.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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The foam pads applied to the mounts. I had to change to longer bolts (20 mm), as the original ones (16 mm) weren't long enough.</div>
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Ok, time to start doing some wiring. I desoldered the 3,5 mm plugs from the motor leads and soldered some 18 awg wire from them to the ESCs, which had their original wires removed, with plugs.</div>
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When testing the motors and ESCs, a good habit is to mark which direction they turn so you don't end up with 4 clockwise rotating motors in the end. Although that won't be such a hassle if you use the motor wire plugs.</div>
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Boom ends look nice and neat.</div>
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The afro ESCs had their heatshrink wrapping removed for the duration of the soldering and got some new sleek black ones after the procedure.</div>
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Test weighing, 618 grams with all frame's heavy parts and looks very promising. We'll have to see what it will be AUW (All Up Weight = ready to fly).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvcuLMO6iHHO0Q0x-ZLu1e6c_0TCzDSpDY4tWiKuM6ZiO5vnhG1j9XxguRbr9RTypL-SNPDlMYvNDKhj7QGd-U_FxNKwx0nlrUrEoq-KE7RJeli2tQrfoBtq4gcrDazTDRqJmH__9YUg/s1600/IMG_6383.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEinvcuLMO6iHHO0Q0x-ZLu1e6c_0TCzDSpDY4tWiKuM6ZiO5vnhG1j9XxguRbr9RTypL-SNPDlMYvNDKhj7QGd-U_FxNKwx0nlrUrEoq-KE7RJeli2tQrfoBtq4gcrDazTDRqJmH__9YUg/s1600/IMG_6383.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Use zoom</td></tr>
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Offtopic. I was working on some stuff very late in the summer in my room and had my window open and desk light on, which attracted a couple of friends... I could hear an audible buzzing sound in the room and happened to gaze up into one the upper corners in my room and saw this... I did not sleep in my room that night. Mosquitoes and other nightly insects, this picture doesn't do justice how many there were.</div>
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ESC battery wire soldering.</div>
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I decided to mount the ESCs so that they were poking out a little from the sides, this prevented them from using valuable real estate on the carbon fiber plate, where I need to mount all the electronics. I also added a little servo lead straight from the main battery lead, in which I would connect my FPV gear.</div>
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Everything squished and hidden away between the bottom and top CF plates. The FPV power lead peaking through the middle hole on the topside and I decided to pull the ESCs' servo leads from the front and rear side so they wouldn't have to go so close to the noisy ESCs and power leads, they were also twisted to a great extent to provide more noise shielding.</div>
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AUW weighing with no FPV gear, 1066 grams, great!<br />
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FPV gear mounted and all the essentials on the table to go flying. You can read more on the groundstation <a href="http://simosmcmuffin.blogspot.com/2014/07/super-simple-portable-fpv-groundstation.html">here</a>. </div>
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1,3 GHz cloverlead antenna and transmitter. You can see under the KKboard 2.0, a servo connector peeking out, which is connected to the battery and supplies the FPV gear with power.</div>
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I'm very pleased how it turned out and it turns out the key to this success was pre-planning and visualizing the whole setup. Now I have very sleek and neat looking multirotor, which I can take with me to video with. I am getting a GoPro to increase the visual quality of my coming videos. Now I just need to improve my FPV gear with better antennas and I should be pretty set.</div>
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<u>Update: Now that I have flown the quad quite a lot I can give some new opinions</u>. This is couple of months later after finishing the build and having time to fine tune things. These are in no particular order.</div>
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1. As a flyer the thing is super stable, especially when there is no wind in the evening it just flies so well. Unfortunately during straight vertical descent it tends to have quite bad wobble, but that is the flight controller trying to do it's job, but ends up doing it badly. Unfortunately due it being so light, it is a little sensitive to gusts and wind in general, but ultimately it is the best flying multirotor I have built so far!</div>
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2. One of the motors has bad bearings and is creating absolutely terrible vibrations in the frame and at least triples the noise of the quadrotor when in flight. I could have tried to change the bearings, but I didn't want to ground the entire copter, so I ordered a whole new motor. Then after I receive the new motor I can try to replace the bad bearings in the old motor without worrying breaking it and grounding my copter.</div>
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3. I noticed very early that there was quite a lot of noise in the power leads from the battery, which created noisy lines in my FPV feed, so I built a LC low-pass filter to filter some of the noise of the power leads and put some servo connectors to it aswell so I can just connect it to the FPV circuitry plug-n-play style. I wound the coil myself using motor winding wire. It works and I get no more lines when I'm at hover power and little over, but at full throttle the filter is too small to handle the greater power spikes and the lines appear again, but because I'm a very relaxed flyer I very rarely go to high throttle</div>
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4. I also need to get better antennas for my FPV system and I am going to make them myself and test them at the tech lab at my university to make sure they're good and up to the task.</div>
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5. The rectangular carbon fiber booms are terrible in crash landing durability, because they are extruded carbon fiber and not woven, but woven carbon fiber in rectangular profile is still a little pricey so I guess I should just avoid crashes *shrugs and rolls eyes. Also they are very hard to drill through cleanly. Round booms would be supreme in every other way, but they're a little hard to mount without adapters.</div>
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The current look of the copter as of the moment of posting this article. GoPro on the front giving live video feed to the VTX (video transmitter). I'm going to 3d print in the future a 1 axis gimbal for the GoPro and use a servo to be able to turn it up and down.</div>
SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-27010643912946985582014-07-31T15:44:00.000+03:002014-09-20T19:16:25.712+03:00Super Simple Portable FPV groundstation<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: justify;">
Along with the new quadcopter designed for FPV-flying I needed to sort my complicated mess of a groundstation to be simple to setup and portable enough to carry around in a backpack, so I can go traveling with it and start flying anywhere with as small of a setup time as possible. So I pretty much simplified it to have no extras, but just the things needed to fly, which are a screen, video receiver and a battery.</div>
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I'll make a sun cover for the screen later from stiff cardboard and make it so it can be folded flat in a backpack.</div>
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<br />SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-20800080549598499562014-07-05T16:29:00.002+03:002014-09-20T20:44:54.388+03:00Carbon Quad update 1Cut almost all the frame pieces and did a test how they fit together.<br />
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The battery tray is made from very thin plywood.<br />
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Looks so nice and neat mmMMmmmm.... Loving it.<br />
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Now it's just waiting until all the parts arrive from hobbyking.SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-63359325428656097812014-06-29T21:29:00.002+03:002014-09-20T20:42:35.956+03:00Project: Carbon QuadMy new goal is to make a good frame for FPV-flying, so it has be laid out properly where everything goes on it. I intend on putting a GoPro 3 on it to capture some sweet aerial footage. SO with what I had learned from my earlier projects I decided to make a mock up first in 3d of the frame and I came up with something like this.<br />
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The idea with the weird shape of the center plates is to make it oblong shaped so I have actually some space where to put the flight controller, RX, VTX and the GoPro. The center area with the hole will be taken mostly with the flight controller. The center plate is not big, it's only 10 cm across on the thinnest part and 15 cm the long way.<br />
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I have the parts ordered and this project log will continue with time and there will be future updates.<br />
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This will be my 3rd multirotor project.<br />
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<span style="text-align: center;"><span style="font-family: inherit;">The big hexacopter was my first ever successful frame project, which was meant to be something that was simple, easy-to-build, easy-to-fix and cheap. The total cost was around 120 €. The center frame and the legs are milled polycarbonate, which I had made by a local acrylics company. And it flew quite well and I learned how to fly with it. Below you can see my first even maiden flight with it and my first ever flight with a multirotor.</span></span><br />
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The second was a much smaller framed multirotor which was meant for indoor flying, but what I needed was a better frame for aerial videoing. The big hexa's frame is just too floppy, it has terrible vibrations running through it and it's much too heavy, which limits the flight times and it doesn't look particularly professional.<br />
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<br />SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-27038482917852876892014-06-28T19:24:00.000+03:002014-09-20T20:41:06.362+03:00Project: LedBlaster 8000<div style="text-align: justify;">
This is one of my active projects at the moment. I started it around december of 2013 after reading an awesome article on <a href="http://hackaday.com/">hackaday.com</a> about a DIY light controller. I designed my own boards on the same month and ordered them from <a href="http://imall.iteadstudio.com/open-pcb/pcb-prototyping.html">IteadStudio</a> and made a parts list and ordered them from <a href="http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en">Digikey</a>. We'll continue this story later in the post.</div>
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It's a lighting controller for RGB-leds to be used with DMX lights software like Freestyler or with christmas lighting software like Vixen 3. This project was based on Shelby Merrick's original project* for the same thing, but I did some changes here and there. For example, Shelby's original Floodbrain board was 18-channel controller, which you could use to control 6 RGB-leds, but mine has 24 channels, which is good for 8 RGB-leds.</div>
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(*<a href="http://forkineye.com/electronics/floodbrain-18-channel-10w-rgb-led-floodlight-system/">Link to Shelby Merrick's original controller project</a>)<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUS8PphvimOr9wmTA91snX6mCQekCUGuNEV0i8kA92T6eJh__OHYgzPJDkI0u4cFRXGYenSaLnBiMt3A-1EBOFCgUXTrOZwb3v614jSjuX3LOPBYl7xp9jYt2EZBzKlBNdvcGV5pyGHI/s1600/IMG_6307.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgrUS8PphvimOr9wmTA91snX6mCQekCUGuNEV0i8kA92T6eJh__OHYgzPJDkI0u4cFRXGYenSaLnBiMt3A-1EBOFCgUXTrOZwb3v614jSjuX3LOPBYl7xp9jYt2EZBzKlBNdvcGV5pyGHI/s1600/IMG_6307.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">First populated prototype version pcb</td></tr>
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The layouts for each channels drivers and the general layout overall are pretty much lifted straight of Merrick's design but I changed the µC from the smaller Xmega that he used to a larger pin count one. This was my first time using a Xmega series chip from Atmel. Everything before this has been just ATtiny and ATmega chips with their ISP programming interfaces and familiar innards. I also used different peripheral ICs for the RS485 communications and regulation for 5 volts for the RS485 chip and then 3,3 volts for the Xmega µC and the optional nRF24L01 2,4 GHz wireless receiver, which I have not ordered and tested at all, but it does have a place for it (not super sure how well it actually fits *shrugs).</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9rCDR3WI0AFuueE6vKqZOUbkqTLPK1V_zUs_nH_njugn-U1pDTPdhrFZcpDhQTqvSPxa5wLwqIVILMiWcqs2eElHvhSv0djl3aFT5R79LwHZmSGNYEZBUiZCZ3fPzCRiZD9pv04FH8U/s1600/IMG_6308.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhy9rCDR3WI0AFuueE6vKqZOUbkqTLPK1V_zUs_nH_njugn-U1pDTPdhrFZcpDhQTqvSPxa5wLwqIVILMiWcqs2eElHvhSv0djl3aFT5R79LwHZmSGNYEZBUiZCZ3fPzCRiZD9pv04FH8U/s1600/IMG_6308.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">USB to RS485 interface for the computer, connected via ethernet cable to the controller</td></tr>
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I wanted to make my controller <a href="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/DMX512">DMX512</a> standard compatible, so I used the RS485 standard for the logic level communication between the computer and controller. The DMX512 standard does have a wiring standard for the RJ-45 connector and the board complies to it.</div>
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOLEvY_efuEATkBjEaFPyrraMVAUOMoK1ES8BqjbKYcilHB55cR7d3xwhxKkLtY55T3IkCPiM0OeRwqK4ShVsN7L6LvWgDEk7-9EyAzD8zp0gDT4glncsd3OCNUNZS9vT3ywMuTA-Kak/s1600/IMG_6309.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjhOLEvY_efuEATkBjEaFPyrraMVAUOMoK1ES8BqjbKYcilHB55cR7d3xwhxKkLtY55T3IkCPiM0OeRwqK4ShVsN7L6LvWgDEk7-9EyAzD8zp0gDT4glncsd3OCNUNZS9vT3ywMuTA-Kak/s1600/IMG_6309.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Super cheap USB->RS485 converter</td></tr>
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The nice thing about the <a href="http://www.dx.com/p/usb-to-rs485-module-black-221402">USB->RS485 board</a> is super cheap, 10 $ and it is first a FTDI FT232RL chip which the computer sees as a COM port and the chip then converts it to the RS232 standard, which goes directly to the input of the RS485 chip, which then generates the differential lines and Wham! Away go your bits down the line. So you can use it the same way as the Arduino's serial monitor for example.</div>
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<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Small breakout board into a RJ45 connector from the RS485 terminals</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEM9EBXWGuJEQ9YUQK462G4GwHhX8lNNx4p0QL0BqcZ1j9G6PxBfXOVUxafvlwRUtOYl867qurYn2WkFPPl4tPd011ZbZ8ohLVGK4HZmINyYL_PkpJkIfhigy2TTCG1BNaulL3fTj2IOI/s1600/IMG_6312.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjEM9EBXWGuJEQ9YUQK462G4GwHhX8lNNx4p0QL0BqcZ1j9G6PxBfXOVUxafvlwRUtOYl867qurYn2WkFPPl4tPd011ZbZ8ohLVGK4HZmINyYL_PkpJkIfhigy2TTCG1BNaulL3fTj2IOI/s1600/IMG_6312.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Continuing the story from the top. I had ordered the boards and the components, and I finally got all the components on my worktable. I did put it together quite soon except for a little detail, which was I had ordered some components from a smaller supplier <a href="http://futurlec.com/">Futurlec</a>, which normally is quite a nice little electronics shop. You can get things much cheaper than ordering small amounts from a bighouse supplier, Digikey. I don't know what went wrong, maybe they had a new intern or something, but they sent me 2 wrong components. The 3,3 volt regulator LM1086-3.3 was LM1086-5.0 regulator, which is for 5 volts and I already had 5 volt regulators 7805 bought in bulk in my parts cabinet. The second thing they got wrong was the microcontroller, instead of the Xmega16D4, they sent me AT!mega!328. I even did not check the actual chip's model before I had soldered it on the board and then I checked all the components and discovered that the regulator was wrong too.</div>
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Long story short, I was pissed.<br />
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Later (couple months) I was ordering some components from Digikey again and added the correct parts on my order (not to say Digikey doesn't make mistakes, because they do, but maybe more on that on another project post ). Then after I had soldered the correct components in and I'm beginning to start on the programming side of things. I remember that the Xmegas don't use the same ISP programming as the other 8-bit µCs from atmel, so I needed to buy a new programmer for that and I ended up buying the <a href="https://www.olimex.com/Products/AVR/Programmers/AVR-ISP-MK2/open-source-hardware">AVR-ISP-MK2</a>, which should fill in all my programming needs for the AVR-family components. The other I like about is that I can use it from Atmel Studio directly, whereas before I used an usbasp programmer and I compiled the projects first in Atmel Studio and then fetched the new .hex file, which I then moved onto my centralised .hex folder after which I used AVRDUDE to actually program the µC.</div>
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Credited Merrick as the original board designer, cheers mate! The jumper on the bottom there is used to change between the DMX protocol and generic serial communication (USART).</div>
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Also if you're wondering why the P-channel fets on the very edge of the board next to the molex headers are on a weird angle. Well this was my first time using P-channel fets and I had connected them the wrong way on Eagle's schematic side and in the end I had to desolder all of them, bend the legs to the package's top side and mount them upside down on that weird angle, but hey. It works :)</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigdJpbURyiaWtKBvI69pPboJ3mtYb0383kGlOdC8pysGi6wb1zl1dOD-N2KTo1iraH6NNQOm0JZJFG_kcrO5Q3Hcdjq7bDnsSJ5rQqoT6Z2vRm512DTc93wFd5f2HMdOegMHfkMUr0SOk/s1600/IMG_6316.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEigdJpbURyiaWtKBvI69pPboJ3mtYb0383kGlOdC8pysGi6wb1zl1dOD-N2KTo1iraH6NNQOm0JZJFG_kcrO5Q3Hcdjq7bDnsSJ5rQqoT6Z2vRm512DTc93wFd5f2HMdOegMHfkMUr0SOk/s1600/IMG_6316.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here are the floodlight enclosures (<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/GTI-10W-SMD-LED-Floodlight-Day-White-Waterproof-IP65-for-House-Garden-Outdoor-/290983927137?ssPageName=ADME:L:OC:GB:3160">same ones as Merrick</a>) that I used. Of course I had to change the white led diodes into <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-10W-RGB-High-Power-LED-Panel-10-Watt-Lamp-Light-/161128291630?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item2583fe9d2e">RGB ones</a> and do some rewiring inside the enclosure. I also made lens holders for the <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/44mm-Lens-Reflector-Collimator-50mm-Base-for-100W-LED-Spot-Light-/371043859694?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Electrical_Fittings_MJ&hash=item5663effcee">reflector and lens</a> to focus the light into more narrow area. The collimator and lens aren't exaactly made for the 10 watt diode that I use, the diode is smaller than the intended size meant for the collimator and lens, but it does focus it.</div>
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Here is the CCR (constant current regulator) board that I use to limit the current to a maximum of 350 mA and I designed the board to be a bit smaller the Merrick's. The tape on the board is to protect the solder joints from shorting on the case. So they burn off any extra current that would otherwise flow through as heat.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjrbRB88Jp7eqWHCC33TVnfAszf0GBz60cbT5xP_WugMS-YcTd0nbvUnVCk09f1Azk-j03gjDIBw9WmHAQ5snbT2NuN3fjo7A3NFKHLjTaqWxiT7t8ZPNkcLNvypj5SlKtyBgZf8JXDJj8/s1600/IMG_6320.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="clear: right; float: right; margin-bottom: 1em; margin-left: 1em;"><br /></a>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRaeBG1E-Ex7mgQNvo6Y1V-MMssNZ8QehliUemUosKCiP5FU4QnGEkrH44tfoFDi4Dfeepbn9JjS9cSoHXInoltvAJU-vChhD2r6_7JTLO1-bv_1imd-QbQ5MACHFUC7hwvTtnCELqYbE/s1600/IMG_6321.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjRaeBG1E-Ex7mgQNvo6Y1V-MMssNZ8QehliUemUosKCiP5FU4QnGEkrH44tfoFDi4Dfeepbn9JjS9cSoHXInoltvAJU-vChhD2r6_7JTLO1-bv_1imd-QbQ5MACHFUC7hwvTtnCELqYbE/s1600/IMG_6321.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Nice and simple</td></tr>
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirWDa5H3jmlDfgeDQIiAVyX_VvM6jgY5QlndkigTcGOseSZoY7ELBO1mnXkq0LumoSJ8tuQP-yz6iaZigdQ8AqcEmoKXxiQ49JdS9WZtIQL9bB7welRM_r0RWmihjb03DhiS7XgEGPvG4/s1600/IMG_6322.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEirWDa5H3jmlDfgeDQIiAVyX_VvM6jgY5QlndkigTcGOseSZoY7ELBO1mnXkq0LumoSJ8tuQP-yz6iaZigdQ8AqcEmoKXxiQ49JdS9WZtIQL9bB7welRM_r0RWmihjb03DhiS7XgEGPvG4/s1600/IMG_6322.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">And if you're wondering what the lens holder is made out of, it's cardboard.</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgXdyTSyrcaiy9kbkcyADnZFx5MRjIpvsd7Pm5gnk6CmYMqosqKlpMsJLkga7X2bOY9F2KTbeNaQt0X5h2KQW0swXIiN0w1Q8-EAmtXs_pXoQT6xeKkPFGCL7vJtgZOoGlpQOmfeuDIA/s1600/IMG_6323.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgSgXdyTSyrcaiy9kbkcyADnZFx5MRjIpvsd7Pm5gnk6CmYMqosqKlpMsJLkga7X2bOY9F2KTbeNaQt0X5h2KQW0swXIiN0w1Q8-EAmtXs_pXoQT6xeKkPFGCL7vJtgZOoGlpQOmfeuDIA/s1600/IMG_6323.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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Here you can see the project box where the controller will reside in and connected to the board next to the RJ45 connectors are super cheap, switching mode <a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-LM2596S-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Step-Down-Module-UK-/141210161794?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item20e0c81282">buck converters</a>, which are used to lower the power supply's higher voltage to correct voltage for each colors bus' forward voltage. So each of the converters supply power for only one color (RGB), which all have different forward voltages.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3IZTMytNNwJpQbaP-nt2kGCN-hN55vmojHklKzqHhOYH6nrZlu8Uj4hKvz4bu5e_SY_HH_2PWmk8vF73EgOssEYQyqcvjl5bFtAXZ_4amRi_4xheD4yXc51qW5MdOI_NMo7cIbFRSFBI/s1600/IMG_6324.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEh3IZTMytNNwJpQbaP-nt2kGCN-hN55vmojHklKzqHhOYH6nrZlu8Uj4hKvz4bu5e_SY_HH_2PWmk8vF73EgOssEYQyqcvjl5bFtAXZ_4amRi_4xheD4yXc51qW5MdOI_NMo7cIbFRSFBI/s1600/IMG_6324.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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I use just a general laptop power supply at 19 volts (changeable), which is then bucked down by the converters.<br />
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<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcFGAwn3YGBsYOFU1qtMzxd90t6Zxs6d0mSWe4YDInM6q55aCdAFMNQ0lfNikHzcStfA5td4MRzw8dPSEjmwB7toh4cHRXeW7R0GYe33BFPoyumAPeNMo3KZsNOpJLoAqUG4A6LXza7jI/s1600/IMG_6325.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhcFGAwn3YGBsYOFU1qtMzxd90t6Zxs6d0mSWe4YDInM6q55aCdAFMNQ0lfNikHzcStfA5td4MRzw8dPSEjmwB7toh4cHRXeW7R0GYe33BFPoyumAPeNMo3KZsNOpJLoAqUG4A6LXza7jI/s1600/IMG_6325.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">Simple DC plug and socket connection between the power supply and the controller</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhwPLumDWdm9LIjF9-N7xLf1Aevmbo0TIbGquE12RCAOUDFCtRKmBNO1gwQvRHH7dofduXBgZQQEW5wd1WmjKjMJlhYgtRt04DNT_jcaFj0lriHDGuhEN9MTASpjV3eftOg0co28g9kY/s1600/IMG_6326.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEgXhwPLumDWdm9LIjF9-N7xLf1Aevmbo0TIbGquE12RCAOUDFCtRKmBNO1gwQvRHH7dofduXBgZQQEW5wd1WmjKjMJlhYgtRt04DNT_jcaFj0lriHDGuhEN9MTASpjV3eftOg0co28g9kY/s1600/IMG_6326.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHg-KHcXc9VbnGrnUfhB4HDAKi1F0kwdQfa886eKqe8gvX4CkCxjJiB2omR-p4c6fTIXvuzuTP_vwxR4FuObkQzpCMxViHT-WDrlEO3Cn8_bgVYXnn6ztHR3VXktsDCcMrIEOZ6eIIlIA/s1600/IMG_6327.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhHg-KHcXc9VbnGrnUfhB4HDAKi1F0kwdQfa886eKqe8gvX4CkCxjJiB2omR-p4c6fTIXvuzuTP_vwxR4FuObkQzpCMxViHT-WDrlEO3Cn8_bgVYXnn6ztHR3VXktsDCcMrIEOZ6eIIlIA/s1600/IMG_6327.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUmg6GfDq7hmRcWqhlWRC9AexXGxvSEbuL58I53Y1NSnqfpy_kcyW8jn3TQ-PM79MIxzE6AKPt2rdl1dXBo8pL_8-crlBaO3viaRfdPbyC2oGwq94A3YDjedFH4XdVEPEmQ6pZNQUJRY/s1600/IMG_6329.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEhIUmg6GfDq7hmRcWqhlWRC9AexXGxvSEbuL58I53Y1NSnqfpy_kcyW8jn3TQ-PM79MIxzE6AKPt2rdl1dXBo8pL_8-crlBaO3viaRfdPbyC2oGwq94A3YDjedFH4XdVEPEmQ6pZNQUJRY/s1600/IMG_6329.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></div>
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<a href="http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5pcs-LM2596S-DC-DC-Buck-Converter-Adjustable-Power-Supply-Step-Down-Module-UK-/141210161794?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Test_Measurement_Equipment_ET&hash=item20e0c81282">The 1 £ buck converter from ebay.</a><br />
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<table align="center" cellpadding="0" cellspacing="0" class="tr-caption-container" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto; text-align: center;"><tbody>
<tr><td style="text-align: center;"><a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTxbA6RLHMjx4BwKO0zG-ExXuH8J0zYskKx_xPogSlsHalv_FdKcbxUHv9eRZRkEblE9bhdzsG-aY95OWF69O0ztKLRG6WJ_VViJrDdD5U4EaCEbUpXFC39mpMCdN8BQYtqyayyUhP_Vo/s1600/IMG_6330.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: auto; margin-right: auto;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjTxbA6RLHMjx4BwKO0zG-ExXuH8J0zYskKx_xPogSlsHalv_FdKcbxUHv9eRZRkEblE9bhdzsG-aY95OWF69O0ztKLRG6WJ_VViJrDdD5U4EaCEbUpXFC39mpMCdN8BQYtqyayyUhP_Vo/s1600/IMG_6330.JPG" height="266" width="400" /></a></td></tr>
<tr><td class="tr-caption" style="text-align: center;">All packed inside</td></tr>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifTwJ3QD4F1ido1ipARd7AMwrbMBu6TD8xpulvW2F9ZTCDSAk5Wh-1c07bLvkBQB4zVqqpLAmuAr655Sb7i2Em9umXDXzxBKNGvTZgFQJmCjcgjIJupVErA8YoUmiNsu04JDpPQaGMY64/s1600/IMG_6331.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEifTwJ3QD4F1ido1ipARd7AMwrbMBu6TD8xpulvW2F9ZTCDSAk5Wh-1c07bLvkBQB4zVqqpLAmuAr655Sb7i2Em9umXDXzxBKNGvTZgFQJmCjcgjIJupVErA8YoUmiNsu04JDpPQaGMY64/s1600/IMG_6331.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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Looks kinda neat without any wires, doesn't it? But the two big holes on the front are there to take all the RGB leds' wiring through and the power supply's DC connector and at the side you can see the RJ45s for communication and daisy chaining.</div>
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<a href="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvS9yFzzCCnINVbDiIS3HGhiVm9SASIGYOmoTDoYsLEfPCEciOCockbbXbaFwygrlLgISfPFo9WxY_kR1j1QFK6naX10XUVvp3ncBydMycLQsIYPTUNahXFuFTro8KDTqMzJE_IZtGANg/s1600/IMG_6332.JPG" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" src="https://blogger.googleusercontent.com/img/b/R29vZ2xl/AVvXsEjvS9yFzzCCnINVbDiIS3HGhiVm9SASIGYOmoTDoYsLEfPCEciOCockbbXbaFwygrlLgISfPFo9WxY_kR1j1QFK6naX10XUVvp3ncBydMycLQsIYPTUNahXFuFTro8KDTqMzJE_IZtGANg/s1600/IMG_6332.JPG" height="265" width="400" /></a></div>
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<br />
There has been a lot of new things that I have learned during this project.<br />
I had never used an Xmega µC,<br />
never used an device with a PDI programming interface,<br />
never used an USART (arduino doesn't count),<br />
never had pcbs made somewhere else,<br />
never done anything with RS485,<br />
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never done anything with DMX512,</div>
never done a project on this scale.<br />
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Those are couple of the biggest new things I encountered during this project and I am now updating the design of the board, as you could see there were some jumper cables and voltage dividers in there.</div>
SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-7768891729380584236.post-14087414556395579732014-06-26T22:18:00.000+03:002014-06-26T22:18:39.535+03:00Hello BlogI will start keeping project logs here to show the internet the projects I'm doing atm, what I'm planning and where I'll be going with them and hopefully connect more with enthusiasts' around the world to talk about them or maybe their own projects.SiMoS MCmuffinhttp://www.blogger.com/profile/03905275490824060725noreply@blogger.com0